Does the future of Portuguese wine begin with grape varieties?
- Teresa Gomes
- há 3 dias
- 5 min de leitura
Reflections on climate change, Portuguese grape varieties, and the future of viticulture in Portugal following the Só Castas international conference.
Last year, I attended the Só Castas conference in Lisbon. It was one of those days when you listen more than you speak and leave with more questions than answers.
Throughout the various presentations, it became clear that the world of wine is changing. And perhaps more importantly, Portugal may be in a particularly interesting position to face that change.
This year, the conference returns on April 10, at the Tivoli Avenida Liberdade Hotel in Lisbon. I must admit I am very excited. Not only for the opportunity to learn again, but also to continue reflecting on the future of Portuguese wine.
But Só Castas is more than just a conference. It will be two days (April 10 and 11) featuring a tasting area dedicated exclusively to Portuguese single-varietal wines (some rare), along with guided tastings. A unique opportunity to explore Portuguese grape varieties with focus and depth.
In this article, I share some of the ideas that stayed with me most from the 2025 conference, based on presentations by Gregory Jones, José Miguel Martínez-Zapater, Elsa Gonçalves, Igor Gonçalves, and Charles Metcalfe.
Wine is changing and we are already feeling it
One of the presentations that made the strongest impression on me was by Gregory Jones, a climate and viticulture specialist. His message was clear: climate change is already affecting viticulture. Vine phenology, he explained, advances 5 to 10 days for every 1°C increase. He gave examples from the Rhône Valley and Burgundy, trends that are not unique to France.
All mid-latitude wine regions (including Europe) face similar challenges, such as increased climate variability and a higher risk of prolonged droughts and more frequent extreme events (31–66% increase in abrupt events since the mid-20th century), particularly in winter. Rapid transitions between dry and wet conditions are also increasing, leading to greater evaporation in a warmer atmosphere.
This is particularly critical for vineyards. Regions that are already dry (Southern Europe, the Mediterranean, and parts of Portugal) are becoming hotter, drier, and more unstable.
Heatwave sequences are increasing and affecting vineyards as well. There is more water stress, blocked ripening, and lower yields.
Climate change is also creating ripening imbalance, sugar, acidity, and phenolic compounds no longer evolve together, inevitably leading to noticeable changes in wine styles:
Higher alcohol;
Lower acidity;
Riper aromatic profiles;
Less freshness.
In Portugal, many producers are already noticing these changes. In some regions, harvests are happening earlier each year. In others, ripening has become more irregular. Balancing sugar, acidity, and phenolic maturity has become more difficult.
Gregory Jones’ message was not only one of concern, it was also about adaptation. Viticulture has always changed and will continue to change, including geographical shifts in wine production.
Portuguese grape diversity may be an advantage
If Gregory Jones provided the climate framework, José Miguel Martínez-Zapater brought a particularly interesting perspective for Portugal. The Iberian Peninsula is one of the regions with the greatest genetic diversity of Vitis vinifera in the world. Portugal, in particular, has an extraordinary number of native grape varieties.
For many years, this diversity was seen as a challenge. Grapes difficult to pronounce, communicate, and explain. According to Martínez-Zapater, however, genetic diversity is one of the best tools for addressing climate change. Fortunately, Portugal is a strategic genetic reservoir, with strong potential for climate adaptation.
Iberian varieties result from natural crossings, selected locally and adapted over centuries. Portuguese grape varieties have therefore already undergone natural adaptation processes and are naturally resilient, better suited to Mediterranean climates.
Genetic diversity is a competitive advantage for climate adaptation, sustainability, and differentiation. Growers should avoid excessive varietal uniformity, since excessive clonal selection reduces diversity and increases vulnerability. Take a moment to celebrate Portuguese field blends!
The greater the diversity, the greater the adaptability. This idea seems particularly relevant for Portugal. What has often been seen as complexity may actually be our strength. Portugal may be better prepared for future climate challenges than many other countries.
Adapting the vineyard will be essential
Presentations by Antero Martins and Elsa Gonçalves brought the discussion to the vineyard level. Adaptation is not only about choosing varieties, it is also about rethinking vineyard practices.
Climate change is already affecting Portuguese viticulture. One of the main challenges is water stress:
Prolonged droughts;
Reduced water availability;
Increased evapotranspiration.
The most vulnerable regions include Alentejo, Douro Superior, Tejo, Beira Interior, and Algarve. Producers should expect lower yields, irregular ripening, stalled maturation, and inevitably higher production costs.
Key strategies include:
Choosing varieties resistant to heat and drought, and later ripening varieties
Selecting rootstocks with better drought resistance and water efficiency
Managing canopy to protect clusters and reduce sun exposure
Managing soils through cover crops, organic matter, and moisture retention
Many of these practices are already being adopted. Trends such as regenerative agriculture, cover cropping, and reduced soil disturbance are becoming more visible. One of the main challenges I frequently hear from producers is that those working in the vineyard often prefer to continue doing things the way they always have...
Altitude and vineyard location are also becoming strategic. A shift toward higher altitudes, cooler zones, and Atlantic influence is expected. Examples include Dão, Lisboa, Bairrada, Trás-os-Montes, and Távora-Varosa. Adaptation will not be a single solution, it will be an ongoing process.
The future will be shaped by small decisions
Igor Gonçalves reinforced this idea. Adaptation will come through many small decisions: variety choice, rootstocks, vineyard location, water management, and cultural practices. None of this is entirely new. But the context has changed, and these decisions are becoming increasingly important.
Opportunities were also discussed, such as new wine styles, renewed interest in cooler regions, and greater diversity. The future will not look like the past, but that does not necessarily mean something negative.
The challenge is not only climatic
Charles Metcalfe brought a different perspective. The challenge is not only viticultural, it is also commercial.
Portugal has:
Quality;
Diversity;
Identity.
But also faces challenges,like lesser-known varieties, few strong brands,limited marketing investment.
One phrase stayed with me: Portugal may need to “shout louder” about its wines.
After listening to all these presentations, I was left with a clear impression that Portuguese wine is at a particularly interesting moment. There are challenges, changes, and uncertainties but also diversity, identity, knowledge, and innovation. Perhaps one of Portugal’s greatest strengths is precisely this diversity: diversity of grape varieties, regions, and styles.
Last year, I left the conference with many ideas and a strong desire to keep learning. That is why I am particularly excited about this year’s edition. Events like Só Castas allow us to pause, listen, and reflect. Portuguese wine is changing and the Portuguese grape varieties may be part of the answer and gatherings like Só Castas help us better understand that future. On April 10, I will be there again. And I am very curious to continue this conversation.
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